DAK BUNGALOW OF NIMBAHERA
About 53 years ago during the early 1970's I
used to reach remote mofussil towns of Rajasthan to explore avenues in
promoting lighting and ceiling fans the products of Crompton Greaves - I was
then sales representative of the company based at Jaipur. At times returning to
district headquarters during the beat from remote areas was not possible and
had to find shelter for overnight stay at Dak Bungalow or at local Dharamsala.
Dak Bungalows which the British regime created during their governance; a guest
house facility for government officials short stay to carry out their duties of
administration. It was a cold dreary evening when I reached NIMBAHERA Dak
Bungalow the place gave an instant look of being totally unoccupied the
watchman cum caretaker " BEHRO " was the only person in the premises
and had no qualm in providing overnight accommodation normally the preference
is for government servants. The bungalow a single storey having three rooms on
the ground floor and two on the first. I opted for room no 3 ground floor far
end from the hallway adjacent to a well maintained garden, the narrow pathway
leading to the outhouse a living quarter of the caretaker cum watchman.I observed
Behro immensely satisfied probably due to quick room selection this did not exert
him of showing other vacant rooms. The Dak Bungalows mostly a small cottage type
home away from town in a secluded area usually a partial storey dwelling
typically featuring sloped roofs,large front windows and broad porch
surrounded by a veranda and a stone built cabin for the caretaker intended to
house a single family quite effective for retaining heat in the winter as well
keeping cool in summer; it is a repository of british government exhibiting the
confluence of indo - british architecture. It was believed that few of the dak
bungalow of Indian hilly regions were said to be haunted by ghosts of shahib
long dead and gone. Also those were the times where village idle locals temple
priests would regale tales of bandits, evil spirits and would remarkably set up
the stage with narration and sound effect choosing a moonlit night my father's official orderly
Arjun Singh in Jaipur was a master story teller. A dwelling not frequented particularly
after sunset . I entered the details in the visitor book along with local
reference of Daulat Electricals - Nimbahera. The room had two sturdy wooden
chairs, a large bed - striped cotton bed sheets spread over a thick cotton
mattress - pillows and a knitted woollen blanket along with a peculiar three leg
round wooden table. The room had attached large bathroom cum indian
toilet, one aluminium mug and a bucket placed under a looming sturdy heavy duty
bronze water tap. Significantly there was an exit from the bathroom opening to
the small garden and the view of the pathway to the outhouse of the caretaker,
the bathroom had a facility of double bolt both inside and outside . I settled in my room
it was around 8.30 pm pitch dark outside only exception of a twin 4 ft size
hanging street light fixed to the silver and black cast iron post at the far
end corner of the bungalow. I stuffed couple of parathas and wheat halwa in my
travelling steel tiffin box while leaving chittorgarh. I had the
packed tiffin for dinner and finally settled with two editions of Rajasthan
Patrika a prominent daily hindi newspaper of Rajasthan. Around mid-night I woke
up to a sound from the bathroom the tap was leaking and the droplet from the
tap fully filled the bucket which was placed under the tap. Emptied the bucket
and placed the bucket under the water tap, a gate valve / cut off valve above
the water tap pipe it's closure shuts off the water flow having ensured
that leakage has been plugged - I was able to sleep immediately. Nothing wakes
up a youth particularly a travelling salesman, I woke up second time to a sound
PLINK, PLINK ,PLOMP it was the noise of water droplets falling one after
another and collecting in the bucket " Emptied " a while ago and the
water pipe line GATE VALVE SHUT OFF. I was still in the bed hearing the flow of
the droplets constantly increasing expected the water from the bucket to overflow. Got up quietly went in the direction of the switch and turned on the
bedroom light and in one quick reflex bolted the bathroom from outside, I was
scared and realised that bathroom is one of the few places which is equipped
with a bolt. Instantly felt relatively secure from the horrors that might be
lurking inside the attached bathroom. There was no sleep now, lay motionless
thinking of the main gate pipe valve, tap and the bucket. A feeble sound plink
plink emanated, fear crept in, the sound of PLINK, PLINK, PLOMP increased droplets
were filling the bucket rapidly and soon as expected an additional sound of water overflowing and
draining, terribly scared and defenceless from an unknown torture. I felt an
urge to check the bathroom though instincts did not approve ( bathroom is
not a place anyone will remain longer than necessary ) sudden uneasiness and
hiccups made me weak and feeble, dreaded that the noisy hiccups should not
annoy the spirits inside.I was in a state of double jeopardy and by chance
remembered my grandfather at his multistory building in Tambaram a town
near Chennai boldly faced a lurking demon at midnight around the house
WATER - WELL and chased it away with a stick. Regained better senses
gathered courage and stood near the bathroom door the sound of PLINK suddenly
stopped, dead silence hiccup ceased. Felt I should not annoy the spirits if any
inside, quietly retrieved to bed. The commotion resumed this time with PLOMP,
PLOMP, PLOMP along with the clamour of draining water from the bucket. While in
bed I was inventing thoughts of long gone british shahibs the tales of village
temple priests and hindi movies like " Bin Badal Barasat" when I left
the theatre before intermission dreaded to watch the movie scene where the
heroine every night alone in a dilapidated seashore villa confronted
helplessly the horrors of satanic clatters and movement of drapes curtains and
portrait. It was sheer stupidity to be in the 18th century secluded
structure like the defenceless actress Waheeda of the horror
movie. I visualised my grandfather heroics and waited for
Behro and the Dawn. Restless scared got up to the window a glance at the
hallway a figure looked like a dangling silhouette, diverted attention to the
gate the fluorescent light was bright and the shadow of the peepal tree was
extending on the western side of the bungalow. Tired and hopeless went to
bed stuffing my head underneath the pillow lay motionless till I heard some
movement leapt to the window and saw BEHRO standing near the gate ; it was one of
the most comforting and gratifying sight. Flung opened the door yelled BEHROO ,
he turned around and came briskly " KYA BAAT HAI SHAHIB " Sir what is
the matter - I put my arms around him took him to my room and pointed my finger
to the bolted bathroom. He called me to the bathroom and said someone has
switched off the main line valve and the water should flow once the knob is
switched on, shall I open ! told him of the night ordeal and the commotion
of leaking tap subsequent plugging the tap and the main valve .The bucket was
emptied BONE DRY - I was in the bathroom around midnight for at least ten minutes located the main line valve to be relieved from the droplets sound of PLINK
PLINK PLOMP . The water is as you observe is not flowing now then how BEHRO the
bucket is full and the bathroom is wet showing proof of excess water drainage. Behro quietly stood
then meekly once again asked whether he should open the mainline valve, NO, No.
I will manage with the bucket water but told him not to move from the verandah
till I pack my belongings. I was ready soon to fill the three small sections of
the visitors book, time and date of check out, next destination and payment with
remarks. The room payment rupees seven and fifty paise - remark :- "
BEHRO dependable attendant"
however one more person is required for the night " explained the remarks
to Behro with a tip of princely rupees five; Behro was delighted and asked me
when will I visit again. I did not bother to answer and concluded that Dak
Bungalows was anchor for wandering officials and travellers during british rule
to the most inhospitable corners of the country. A person with a sensitive hide
has no right to be here especially overnight stays. Instead I asked who is the
plumber here, myself said Behro , I fix water leakage as well electric fuses.
When was the room 3 last occupied fetch the visitor- register , noted it was on
19th August 1969 almost 7 months ago by Ramanlal Meena Jr Engineer of state
government posted in Ajmer. Behro dropped me in his bicycle at the bus depot a
distance of more than a kilometre. BEHRO touched my feet and slowly cycled his
way to the Dak Bungalow , my eyes moistened and I will remember him at all
times.
A primary school teacher boarded from Nimbahera
seated next to me in the bus during the conversation said that there is another
guest house near his school and the Dak Bunglow where I stayed will be
demolished a proposal is in place to erect a dispensary.
Rajasthan is popular for its ancient historical
location ,Forts of "Bangarh" near Sariska Tiger Sanctuary in Alwar.
The entire Fort believed is to be possessed by Female Demon another is in
"Kuldhana" near the border city of Jaisalmer the village remains abandoned
for nearly 400 years the natives affirm about devils dance forming group
carrying torches made of several sticks bundled together and fastened to the
animal bone at night for 3 days starting from the first day of amavasya.
"Sudhabay" a sleepy settlement close to the holy town Puskar near
Ajmer where the "Ghost Fair" is held every year the place is located
in a scenic green valley near the flowing natural lake - here people come every
year to get rid of the spirit they believe possess them. Only flowers of
ROHEDA which grows on Marwar Teak in Thar desert are offered in copper
plate to the Demon Deity. A strict dress code has to be followed of Black or
dark Violet gown liquor and currency are essential oblations offered by worshippers.
Ramlal Meena an official posted in Ajmer who was the last occupant of the Dak
Bungalow Room - 3 , before my overnight stay almost seven months
later; he would have not missed SUDHABAY FAIR.............
