DHABHA to IOWA 80

Like civilization which has evolved overtime along the banks of great rivers, the DHABAS have mushroomed along the highway buzzing with traffic activity. The last occasion I drove was on the old Mumbai – Pune highway, there existed “Toni Da Dhaba” located just before entering Lonawala region. The typical ‘Dhaba’ is one where the eating area is open on all sides, covered over head (temporarily). The high light of the meal turned out to be JALEBIS AND RABADI, prepared in Pure deshi ghee. This delicacy is available at several Dhabas en route to Delhi from Jaipur on NH-8- particularly after crossing BEHROR. While driving on National Express Highway to Pune, I was bit dismayed to note this time that Dhabas have given way to structured restaurant, catering to fast food concepts.

Dhabas were traditionally characterized by mud structures and cots to sit upon (Chaarpai) one first needed to squat on the cot and have food. It was essentially for serving lorry drivers with water and local cuisine inexpensive and homemade feel to it. Since most drivers are of Punjabi descent, and Punjabi food specially heavily – spiced and DAL fried with pure ghee and  lassi (Thick Butter Milk) this Punjabi fare was preferred by all motorist and truck driver, driving on the Highway. It is often remarked that wherever a Punjabi goes to settle his food follows. Traditionally the majority Punjabis took to the wheel of the truck and ventured into transportation trade, there followed the need to feed and provide shelter to these drivers plying trucks; large chunks of land were leveled by the farmers who recognized the commercial worth of their properties; one of the Dhaba I visited a couple of years ago located on Jodpur – Bikaner highway Rajwada ka Dhaba were I relished having MAWA KA KACHORI is a sweet made of mawa stuffed in Kachori. It is a dish originated from Jodhpur by Rawat family now having a large chain of sweets meat outlets known as Rawat Mistan Bhandar they have another variety of snacks known PYAJ KI KACHORI. Today you will notice a diverse range of Dhabas with a touch of local flavor dot the map of India from Kashmir to Chennai. Around middle of 20^th century when United States created under Marshal Plan interstate highway system when they made possible to drive from east coast to the west coast road side restaurant came up much like Dabha, affluence reached the sidelines of those highways through improvised eateries – entrepreneurs like IOWA – 80 launched into a programme to create tourism node along the roads they are now equipped with rooms and all amenities for night stop offering safe parking, good food, plenty of entertainment including medical and dental care. The West to East coast  road travel by the duo and vice versa solo journey undertaken in less than five days by Aswin- Mirdula and later by Vaidya-Archana covering almost 7000 Km and recently by Susan - Ramani the adventure was hassle free and enjoyable. I think IOWA-80 will be the next destination of INDIAN DHABA - 1940’s.

“Indomitable CVG” my Uncle

I, like many of you, cannot believe that my father’s younger brother Gopalakrishnan is no more. As I continue to brood over it, I remain sunk in thoughts about the world he has gone to which everyone is eventually bound perhaps till then it will remain for the rest of us “an undiscovered destination from which no traveler returns” My father Veeraghavan “CVV” and his two younger brothers “CVG” and “CVS” all towered over 6 feet so also my aunts were taller than me with stunning looks and those who met them first could never take their eyes off them for quite a while. CVG was witness to great, unfolding history as a former special correspondent of “THE HINDU” in New Delhi in 1964 and stayed on till 2002 when he was 75. It was a very long duration which a management like “THE – HINDU” of Kasturi believed “Ripeness is all and the best is yet to be”. Similarly my father served “THE – HINDU” for 20 years a second stint after retiring from state government services at 58 so also CVS the youngest as a off-shore oil and natural gas special correspondent “The Hindu became a part of their existence”. CVG was a daring journalist, he was given valuable assignment in almost every country in the world including UNO and the then Soviet Union. I remember two significant incidents one being the Janta coalition that gained power at the centre following emergency and parliament members like Madhu Limaye, Krishankant and Geoge Fernades pulled out of Janta party forcing Morarji Deasi to resign from office and retire from politics on the issue of Dual membership (Specifically those members of the Janta party who had been members of the Jan Sangh and continued to be members of Rashtirya  Swayamsevak  Sangh). Madhu Limaye a follower of Ram Manohar Lohiya a socialist was a powerful politician along with Charan Singh and fellow traveler George Fernades was responsible for the collapse of Morarji Deasi government. CVG confronted Madhu Limaye at the central hall of the parliament and openly rebuked him for bringing down the government which was instrumental in securing second independence after emergency was imposed by the congress government. The another incident was of Maharani Gayatridevi the London born queen of Jaipur perhaps one of the most elegant person in the world who in her palace lived a charmed life in lily pool among her daisies and horses was jailed and slogged for 19 months during emergency, CVG had the courage to call on her at the height of emergency and during the meeting time assignment by prison authorities asked the maharani lodged at women wing of Tihar Jail Delhi, what she wants him to do, she smiled and told CVG all she needs is a clean towel and a soap. CVG wrote subsequently that Gayatridevi dignity never failed  during her captivity. A voracious reader and reviewer of fresh literary publications, at ease with both economic and political coverage. He was very apprehensive and critical about massive investment in public sector undertaking by Govt of India His dispatches were prompt- events of parliament and press conferences during that era used to appear in the morning papers when the accredited correspondents used to reach the nearest post offices for getting their coverage transmitted through teleprinter. He used to relish Tiffin at The Hindu office canteen particularly ‘ Pakoras’ and ones drew the attention of Moynihan the US Ambassador in New Delhi during a reception at embassy  premises that he finds no difference in taste of Fish Pokora and the canteen Pokora of The  Hindu since he has mistakenly consumed the other one. Once during a recess at UNO, a gardener approached him for a tip, CVG for a moment looked around and handed him a few dollars and told him that our Government is currently negotiating for a grant at your IMF section of the building with a bowl, pray for our nation to get something worthwhile today. He is also sorely missed in the current national’s financial and political turmoil

CVG lived a life as rich as it was long and has left us to cherish the ever - lasting memories which TIME cannot rob.