Like
civilization which has evolved overtime along the banks of great rivers, the
DHABAS have mushroomed along the highway buzzing with traffic activity. The
last occasion I drove was on the old Mumbai – Pune highway, there existed “Toni
Da Dhaba” located just before entering Lonawala region. The typical ‘Dhaba’ is
one where the eating area is open on all sides, covered over head
(temporarily). The high light of the meal turned out to be JALEBIS AND RABADI,
prepared in Pure deshi ghee. This delicacy is available at several Dhabas en route
to Delhi from Jaipur on NH-8- particularly after crossing BEHROR. While driving
on National Express Highway to Pune, I was bit dismayed to note this time that
Dhabas have given way to structured restaurant, catering to fast food concepts.
Dhabas were
traditionally characterized by mud structures and cots to sit upon (Chaarpai)
one first needed to squat on the cot and have food. It was essentially for
serving lorry drivers with water and local cuisine inexpensive and homemade
feel to it. Since most drivers are of Punjabi descent, and Punjabi food
specially heavily – spiced and DAL fried with pure ghee and lassi (Thick Butter Milk) this Punjabi fare
was preferred by all motorist and truck driver, driving on the Highway. It is
often remarked that wherever a Punjabi goes to settle his food follows.
Traditionally the majority Punjabis took to the wheel of the truck and ventured
into transportation trade, there followed the need to feed and provide shelter
to these drivers plying trucks; large chunks of land were leveled by the
farmers who recognized the commercial worth of their properties; one of the
Dhaba I visited a couple of years ago located on Jodpur – Bikaner highway Rajwada
ka Dhaba were I relished having MAWA KA KACHORI is a sweet made of mawa stuffed
in Kachori. It is a dish originated from Jodhpur by Rawat family now having a
large chain of sweets meat outlets known as Rawat Mistan Bhandar they have
another variety of snacks known PYAJ KI KACHORI. Today you will notice a
diverse range of Dhabas with a touch of local flavor dot the map of India from
Kashmir to Chennai. Around middle of 20th century when United States
created under Marshal Plan interstate highway system when they made possible to
drive from east coast to the west coast road side restaurant came up much like
Dabha, affluence reached the sidelines of those highways through improvised eateries
– entrepreneurs like IOWA – 80 launched into a programme to create tourism node
along the roads they are now equipped with rooms and all amenities for night
stop offering safe parking, good food, plenty of entertainment including
medical and dental care. The West to East coast
road travel by the duo and vice versa solo journey undertaken in less
than five days by Aswin- Mirdula and later by Vaidya-Archana covering almost 7000
Km and recently by Susan - Ramani the adventure was hassle free and
enjoyable. I think IOWA-80 will be the next destination of INDIAN DHABA -
1940’s.
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